Capri

Welcome to Voyage Owl’s walking tour of Capri, a jewel of the Tyrrhenian Sea! Whether it’s the brilliant blue waters, the dramatic cliffs, or the charming streets, Capri has been captivating visitors for centuries. But there’s so much more to this island than its breathtaking views. Capri has been a magnet for Roman emperors, artists, writers, and travelers seeking inspiration, beauty, and a touch of mystery. On this walking and driving tour of the island, we’ll uncover the history that makes Capri such a timeless destination. As we wind through its streets and landmarks, you’ll discover ancient ruins, hidden grottos, and captivating stories that have turned this small island into a place of legends.

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### Stop 1: Piazza Umberto I (La Piazzetta) – Capri’s Timeless Meeting Point

Welcome to La Piazzetta, often referred to as the “living room of the world.” This bustling square may seem like just a charming spot for a cappuccino today, but it’s been at the center of life on Capri for centuries. When you first step into the piazza, you might be struck by the leisurely pace of life here—locals and tourists alike gather around small tables, chatting and people-watching. But the history of this square runs much deeper.

In the early days, La Piazzetta wasn’t the glamorous hub it is now. Capri was a quiet fishing village, and this square served as the marketplace where the locals came to trade their goods, especially fish. It was a practical, no-frills space—far from the chic, cosmopolitan atmosphere it enjoys today. Fishermen would haul in their catch of the day, while farmers from Anacapri brought their produce down the hill to sell. The rhythm of daily life revolved around this square, with villagers gossiping, bargaining, and exchanging news.

At the heart of La Piazzetta is the iconic Clock Tower, a symbol of Capri that dates back to the 17th century. Interestingly, the tower was built on top of the ruins of a medieval church that once stood here. It’s been ticking away for centuries, keeping time for the islanders and, more recently, for the many tourists who pass through each day. The clock’s face is a cheerful, bright yellow—a burst of sunshine that fits perfectly with Capri’s Mediterranean vibe.

During the 1950s, La Piazzetta transformed from a local marketplace into a global hot spot, thanks in part to famous visitors like Jackie Kennedy, Elizabeth Taylor, and Clark Gable, who brought a wave of glamour to the island. From then on, La Piazzetta became the place to see and be seen. Today, you’re just as likely to rub shoulders with a celebrity as you are with a local.

Take a moment to sit down and savor a coffee or a limoncello, Capri’s famous lemon liqueur. Limoncello is made from the island’s abundant lemons, which thrive in the Mediterranean climate. The local lemons are larger and sweeter than those you might find elsewhere, giving the liqueur its distinctive, bright flavor. As you sip your drink, look around and take in the atmosphere—this is where the pulse of Capri beats the strongest.

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### Stop 2: Via Camerelle – Where History and High Fashion Collide

Leaving the hustle and bustle of La Piazzetta behind, we’ll meander down Via Camerelle, one of Capri’s most exclusive streets. Today, Via Camerelle is lined with luxury boutiques featuring the latest from designers like Gucci, Prada, and Dolce & Gabbana. The street is a magnet for the rich and famous, who flock here to indulge in retail therapy. But beneath the glitzy surface, there’s a fascinating layer of history hidden in its name.

"Camerelle" translates to "little rooms" in Italian, and that’s a nod to the Roman cisterns that once lined this very street. These underground rooms were built to collect and store water, ensuring the island’s residents had enough during the hot, dry summers. Even in ancient times, Capri faced the challenge of sourcing fresh water, and the Romans—known for their engineering prowess—constructed these cisterns to solve the problem.

Capri’s relationship with the Roman Empire was particularly intimate, especially during the reign of Emperor Tiberius. Tiberius, one of Rome’s more reclusive and enigmatic emperors, made Capri his personal sanctuary, fleeing the political chaos of Rome. He spent the last decade of his life on the island, ruling the vast Roman Empire from the comfort of his seaside villas. As you stroll down Via Camerelle, it’s not hard to imagine Tiberius’ influence still lingering in the air, mingling with the modern-day energy of the street.

What’s truly fascinating is that Capri has always attracted those seeking an escape. From Roman emperors to 20th-century celebrities, the island has been a haven for those in need of peace, privacy, and a little bit of indulgence. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, Capri became a retreat for artists and writers drawn by its ethereal beauty. Even today, there’s something about the island that inspires creativity—whether it’s fashion, art, or simply the art of relaxation.

If you’re in the mood for a bit of shopping, this is the place. But even if you’re just window-shopping, enjoy the contrast of ancient history and modern luxury as you make your way down Via Camerelle.

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### Stop 3: Giardini di Augusto – A Masterpiece of Nature and Human Ingenuity

A short walk from Via Camerelle brings us to the Giardini di Augusto (Gardens of Augustus), a lush oasis with one of the most spectacular views you’ll find anywhere on the island. As we step into these terraced gardens, take a deep breath—the air here seems just a bit fresher, filled with the scent of flowers and the salty sea breeze.

The gardens were created in the early 20th century by the German industrialist Friedrich Alfred Krupp, who was completely captivated by Capri’s natural beauty. Krupp was one of many wealthy Europeans who, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, turned Capri into their personal playground. He built the gardens to complement his private villa, but he didn’t stop there—he also constructed the incredible Via Krupp, the serpentine path that winds down the cliffs to the sea.

As you look out over the gardens, you’ll see the dramatic Faraglioni—those iconic rock formations rising majestically out of the sea. The Faraglioni have been a symbol of Capri since ancient times, and each one has its own name and story. The largest is called Stella, the middle one is Mezzo, and the third is Scopolo, which houses a unique species of lizard that lives nowhere else in the world. These towering stacks are more than just rocks—they’re symbols of Capri’s timeless beauty and enduring appeal.

And then there’s Via Krupp, one of the island’s most famous landmarks. The path, which twists and turns like a coiled snake, was Krupp’s gift to himself and to Capri. He used it as a private route to get from his villa to the sea, but today it’s a public path (when it’s open, that is—rockfalls sometimes force its closure). Walking down Via Krupp is like taking a journey through time, with each curve offering a new perspective on the island’s rugged coastline.

Interestingly, Krupp’s relationship with Capri didn’t end well. Rumors swirled about his involvement in a scandal, and he left the island under a cloud of suspicion. But his legacy remains in the beauty of these gardens and the winding path he left behind.

As you wander through the gardens, take a moment to appreciate the blend of human artistry and natural wonder that defines this place. Capri’s landscapes have always inspired awe, and the Gardens of Augustus are a perfect example of how nature and design can come together to create something truly magical.

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### Stop 4: Villa Jovis – Tiberius’ Royal Retreat

The next few stops will be a bit further away of town center, but are definitely must see sights so we recommend getting there by car. We’re now heading to one of the most historically significant sites on the island—Villa Jovis, the ancient Roman palace built by Emperor Tiberius. The walk up to Villa Jovis is a bit challenging, with a steep incline and narrow paths, but it’s well worth the effort. As you climb, you’ll get a sense of why Tiberius chose this remote spot as his refuge from the pressures of ruling the Roman Empire.

Tiberius was a complex figure. He became emperor in 14 AD, following the death of Augustus, Rome’s first emperor. Tiberius’ reign was marked by political intrigue and instability, and as he grew older, he became increasingly reclusive. In 27 AD, he left Rome for Capri, where he spent the last decade of his life, ruling the empire from a distance. Villa Jovis was his primary residence during this time—a sprawling complex that reflects both the luxury and the paranoia of his later years.

The villa itself is an architectural marvel. Perched on the northeastern tip of the island, it offers panoramic views of the sea and the mainland, allowing Tiberius to monitor both the beauty of the natural world and the approach of any potential threats. The ruins you’ll explore today give you a sense of the scale of the villa, which included opulent living quarters, bathhouses, gardens, and even a private temple for worship. It’s said that Tiberius had several other villas on the island, but Villa Jovis was his favorite—his seat of power and his sanctuary.

Walking through the ruins, you can still feel the presence of the emperor. Tiberius was known for his paranoia in his later years, and the villa’s isolated location reflects that. According to ancient historians, Tiberius would station guards around the villa to prevent any unwanted visitors, and some even claimed that he would dispose of traitors by throwing them off the cliffs into the sea below. Whether or not these tales are true, they add to the aura of mystery that surrounds Villa Jovis.

Despite his reclusiveness, Tiberius continued to rule the empire effectively from Capri. His reign may have been shadowed by controversy, but he was a skilled administrator, and his time on Capri was marked by both peace and prosperity for the Roman Empire.

As you take in the views from Villa Jovis, imagine what it must have been like for Tiberius to sit here, gazing out over the sea, far from the chaos of Rome. Capri was his refuge, and for a brief moment, it can be yours too.

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### Stop 5: The Blue Grotto – Capri’s Legendary Sea Cave

Next, we head to one of Capri’s most famous natural attractions: the Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra). This magical sea cave has been enchanting visitors for centuries, but its history goes back much further than the tourists and boats you’ll see today.

The Blue Grotto’s otherworldly glow comes from sunlight that enters the cave through an underwater cavity, creating a shimmering blue reflection that illuminates the entire cave. But this isn’t just a modern-day marvel—Ancient Romans were well aware of the grotto’s mystical properties. In fact, the grotto was once part of Emperor Tiberius’ personal swimming pool! Tiberius even decorated the cave with statues of sea gods, and several of these statues were recovered during underwater archaeological excavations in the 1960s.

The ancient Romans believed that the Blue Grotto was inhabited by sea nymphs, mythical creatures who were said to live in bodies of water and protect sailors. Today, stepping into the grotto still feels like entering another world. The only way to access the cave is by boat, and the entrance is so low that you’ll have to lie flat in the boat to get through. Once inside, the cave opens up into a large chamber, and the light plays tricks on your eyes, making the water seem to glow from within.

In the 19th century, the Blue Grotto was rediscovered by the German writer August Kopisch, who was so captivated by its beauty that he wrote extensively about it, helping to bring the grotto to the attention of the wider world. Since then, it has become one of Capri’s most popular attractions, drawing visitors from all over to experience its ethereal beauty.

A visit to the Blue Grotto is a must, but there’s one thing to keep in mind: the cave can only be accessed when the sea is calm. If the tide is too high or the waves too strong, it’s impossible to enter. That’s why it’s a good idea to go early in the day, when the waters are usually at their calmest.

As you float in the grotto, take a moment to appreciate the natural wonder of this place. It’s easy to see why the Romans were so enchanted by the Blue Grotto—it feels like a doorway to another realm, a place where the lines between reality and myth blur.

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### Stop 6: Anacapri – The Island’s Serene Escape

For our final stop, we’ll make our way to Anacapri, the quieter, more relaxed part of the island. While Capri town buzzes with activity, Anacapri offers a peaceful retreat. It’s perched higher up on the island, and as we climb the hill to reach it, you’ll notice how the atmosphere changes. The name “Anacapri” means "above Capri," and this elevation not only gives the town its name but also offers stunning views of the surrounding sea and countryside.

Anacapri has a more local, authentic feel than Capri town. The streets here are lined with whitewashed houses, small artisan shops, and cozy cafés. It’s a place where you can take a leisurely stroll, far from the crowds, and soak in the island’s natural beauty. One of the highlights of Anacapri is the Church of San Michele, a beautiful 18th-century church that features an intricate tiled floor depicting the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden. The floor is made of majolica tiles, a traditional form of Italian ceramic art, and it’s a masterpiece of craftsmanship. As you stand above it, you’ll feel like you’re looking down on a vibrant, living scene.

Anacapri is also home to the Villa San Michele, one of the most charming and unique spots on the island. The villa was built by the Swedish physician and writer Axel Munthe, who fell in love with Capri and decided to make it his home. Munthe constructed the villa on the ruins of an ancient Roman site, incorporating elements of classical architecture and art into his design. The villa’s gardens are filled with ancient statues, Roman columns, and blooming flowers, creating an atmosphere of timeless beauty.

Munthe wrote about his experiences on Capri in his book *The Story of San Michele*, which became a bestseller and helped to cement Capri’s reputation as a place of inspiration and retreat. As you wander through the villa’s gardens and look out over the sea, it’s easy to understand why Munthe—and so many others—fell in love with this island.

Anacapri also offers access to Monte Solaro, the highest point on the island. You can reach the summit by foot, but if you’re looking for a more leisurely ascent, you can take the chairlift—an unforgettable ride that offers panoramic views of the island, the sea, and the distant mainland. From the top of Monte Solaro, you’ll feel like you’re standing on top of the world.

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### Conclusion

Capri is a place where history and myth blend seamlessly with the present. From the bustling energy of La Piazzetta to the ancient grandeur of Villa Jovis, the mystical beauty of the Blue Grotto, and the serene charm of Anacapri, this island has something to offer every traveler. Whether you’re here for the history, the views, or simply to relax, Capri will leave you with memories as unforgettable as the island itself.

As you finish this walking tour, take a moment to appreciate the unique energy of Capri—a place where emperors ruled, artists created, and travelers continue to find inspiration. This is an island that has been enchanting visitors for centuries, and now, you are part of that story too.

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