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Welcome to Voyage Owl’s walking tour of Matera, a city that feels as if time itself has stood still. Known for its breathtaking Sassi (stone cave dwellings), Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history that stretches back over 9,000 years. As you explore this extraordinary place, you’ll be walking through layers of history, from the ancient Neolithic period to the Roman Empire, the Middle Ages, and the present day. Matera is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a city unlike any other, where the past and present live side by side.

Located in the southern Italian region of Basilicata, Matera has gained fame for its distinctive Sassi di Matera, ancient cave dwellings carved into the limestone cliffs that have been home to humans for millennia. Once known as the “shame of Italy” due to the extreme poverty in the region, Matera has experienced a remarkable transformation and is now celebrated as one of Italy’s most beautiful and historically significant cities. In 2019, Matera was honored as the European Capital of Culture, a testament to its artistic and cultural rebirth.

As we embark on this walking tour, we’ll take you through the labyrinthine streets of Matera’s old town, exploring its ancient cave dwellings, historic churches, and stunning views. Along the way, we’ll dive into the city’s rich history, uncover fascinating stories, and experience the unique charm of this remarkable city. Let’s begin our journey at the heart of Matera—the Sassi di Matera.

### Stop 1: Sassi di Matera – The Ancient Cave Dwellings

Our tour begins in the Sassi di Matera, the most iconic and awe-inspiring part of the city. The Sassi are divided into two main districts: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, both filled with ancient cave dwellings, churches, and narrow alleyways that wind through the limestone cliffs. These ancient caves were first inhabited during the Paleolithic era, making Matera one of the earliest human settlements in Italy.

As you walk through the Sassi, you’ll notice how the houses seem to emerge from the rocks themselves, blending seamlessly into the natural landscape. Many of these homes were dug directly into the soft limestone, while others were built using the stones quarried from the caves. The Sassi were home to Matera’s population for centuries, and by the 1950s, thousands of people still lived in these cave dwellings, often without electricity, running water, or proper sanitation.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the Sassi is their complex network of cisterns and water channels, which were used to collect and store rainwater. This ingenious system allowed the inhabitants of Matera to survive in the arid landscape, where water was often scarce. The Sassi’s architecture is not just a testament to human endurance but also to the ingenuity of the city’s ancient inhabitants.

Today, many of the Sassi have been restored and transformed into hotels, restaurants, and museums, offering visitors a chance to experience life in a cave dwelling. One such example is the Casa Grotta di Vico Solitario, a traditional cave house that has been preserved to show how people lived in the Sassi up until the mid-20th century. Inside, you’ll see the simple furnishings, the kitchen, and even the animals' quarters, giving you a glimpse into the daily life of Matera’s cave-dwelling residents.

As you wander through the Sassi, take a moment to pause and admire the panoramic views of the Gravina Canyon and the Murgia Plateau beyond. This breathtaking landscape adds to the sense of timelessness that permeates Matera, making it easy to see why filmmakers have used the city as a stand-in for ancient Jerusalem in films like The Passion of the Christ.

After exploring the Sassi, we’ll head to our next stop, one of Matera’s most famous and beautiful rock-cut churches: Santa Maria de Idris.

### Stop 2: Santa Maria de Idris – The Church in the Rock

Perched on a rocky promontory above the Sassi, the Santa Maria de Idris is one of the most striking and unique churches in Matera. Carved directly into the rock, this small but beautiful church is a perfect example of Matera’s blend of spirituality and stone. The church’s name, “Idris,” is derived from the Greek word for “water,” reflecting the importance of water to the city’s survival.

As you approach Santa Maria de Idris, you’ll be struck by its dramatic location, perched high above the Sasso Caveoso with panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The church’s simple stone facade gives little indication of the treasures that lie inside, but once you step through its doors, you’ll be greeted by a stunning array of frescoes that date back to the 12th and 13th centuries.

The church is part of a larger complex that includes the adjoining San Giovanni in Monterrone, another rock-cut church that is connected to Santa Maria de Idris by a narrow passageway. Inside both churches, you’ll find beautifully preserved frescoes that depict biblical scenes, saints, and angels, many of which have retained their vibrant colors despite being centuries old. These frescoes are a testament to Matera’s long history as a center of Christian worship and artistry.

One of the most interesting stories associated with Santa Maria de Idris is its role during World War II. The church was used as a hiding place by locals seeking refuge from air raids, and its remote location made it a safe haven during the conflict. Today, the church is a place of peace and contemplation, offering visitors a chance to reflect on the city’s spiritual and historical significance.

After visiting Santa Maria de Idris, we’ll continue our journey through Matera’s religious history by exploring another of its remarkable rock-cut churches: San Pietro Barisano.

### Stop 3: San Pietro Barisano – Matera’s Largest Rock-Cut Church

Our next stop is the San Pietro Barisano, the largest of Matera’s rock-cut churches and one of the most impressive examples of the city’s religious architecture. Located in the Sasso Barisano district, this church was carved into the limestone during the 12th century and has been expanded and modified over the centuries to accommodate its growing congregation.

As you approach San Pietro Barisano, you’ll notice its simple yet elegant facade, which was added in the 17th century and features a small bell tower and a statue of Saint Peter. But the true wonder of San Pietro Barisano lies inside, where you’ll find an intricate network of underground chambers and tunnels that were used for both religious and practical purposes.

One of the most fascinating aspects of San Pietro Barisano is its use as a burial site. Beneath the main altar, you’ll find a series of crypts and ossuaries where the bodies of priests and local nobility were once interred. The bodies were placed in specially designed sedile sepolcrali (burial seats), which allowed them to decompose naturally. This practice was common in Matera’s churches until the 18th century, and it provides a unique insight into the city’s religious and funerary traditions.

The church’s interior is adorned with beautiful frescoes, many of which date back to the 13th century. These frescoes depict scenes from the New Testament, as well as images of saints and angels, all painted in the Byzantine style that was popular in southern Italy during the medieval period. Despite the passage of time, many of these frescoes have been remarkably well-preserved, thanks in part to the church’s protected underground environment.

San Pietro Barisano is not just a place of worship—it’s a living testament to Matera’s deep connection to its underground world. After exploring the church’s crypts and frescoes, we’ll make our way to one of the city’s most important historical landmarks: the Casa Noha.

### Stop 4: Casa Noha – A Journey Through Matera’s History

Located in the heart of the Civita district, Casa Noha is a fascinating multimedia museum that tells the story of Matera’s long and complex history. Housed in a traditional stone building, Casa Noha was once the home of a noble family, but today it serves as an immersive exhibition space where visitors can learn about the city’s past through a series of films and interactive displays.

As you step into Casa Noha, you’ll be greeted by a film entitled “Matera: A Timeless Story,” which takes you on a journey through the city’s history, from its prehistoric origins to its modern-day renaissance. The film is projected onto the walls of the house, allowing you to experience the history of Matera in the very rooms where it unfolded. You’ll learn about the city’s ancient cave dwellings, its role in the Byzantine and Norman eras, and its transformation during the 20th century.

One of the most powerful sections of the exhibition focuses on the period after World War II, when Matera was known as the “shame of Italy.” During this time, the Sassi were overcrowded, and the living conditions in the caves were so dire that the Italian government intervened, forcibly relocating the inhabitants to modern housing on the outskirts of the city. The Sassi remained abandoned for decades, until a restoration project in the 1980s brought the caves back to life and helped Matera earn its place as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Casa Noha is not just a museum—it’s a place of storytelling, where the history of Matera comes alive through immersive experiences. The multimedia presentations, narrated by locals and historians, offer a deeply personal perspective on the city’s evolution and its people. Through these stories, you’ll gain a greater appreciation for the resilience of Matera’s residents, who have endured hardships and transformed their city into a beacon of cultural pride.

After exploring the history of Matera at Casa Noha, we’ll continue to one of the city’s most stunning landmarks: Palombaro Lungo, the vast underground water cistern that was vital to the survival of Matera’s inhabitants.

### Stop 5: Palombaro Lungo – Matera’s Underground Reservoir

Next, we’ll descend into the depths of Matera to explore the Palombaro Lungo, an enormous underground water cistern located beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This hidden marvel is one of the largest ancient cisterns in Europe and was used to collect and store rainwater, which was essential for the city’s survival in the arid region of Basilicata. Built in the 19th century and expanded over the years, the Palombaro Lungo could hold up to 5 million liters of water, ensuring a steady supply for the city’s residents even during the driest months.

As you descend into the cistern, you’ll be amazed by the sheer size of the underground chamber, with its towering arches and vaulted ceilings. The walls of the cistern are coated with a thick layer of waterproof plaster, which helped to preserve the water for long periods. The cistern is connected to a network of underground canals and wells, which collected rainwater from the surrounding hills and funneled it into the reservoir.

The Palombaro Lungo is a testament to the ingenuity of Matera’s inhabitants, who devised this intricate system to sustain life in a region where water was scarce. During the summer months, when the rivers and streams dried up, the cistern ensured that the people of Matera had access to clean, fresh water.

Exploring the cistern is a fascinating experience, as you can see how the city’s ancient inhabitants relied on their knowledge of engineering and architecture to survive in a challenging environment. It’s also a reminder of how deeply connected Matera is to its underground world, where life below the surface was just as important as life above.

After leaving the Palombaro Lungo, we’ll head back to the surface to explore one of Matera’s most important religious sites: the Matera Cathedral.

### Stop 6: Matera Cathedral – A Blend of Baroque and Romanesque Splendor

Our next stop takes us to the Matera Cathedral, a stunning example of Romanesque architecture with Baroque influences. Perched on the highest point of the Civita Hill, the cathedral offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape, making it one of Matera’s most iconic landmarks. Built in the 13th century, the cathedral was constructed on the site of an earlier church and has undergone several renovations over the centuries, each leaving its mark on the building’s design.

As you approach the cathedral, you’ll notice its impressive façade, adorned with intricate stone carvings and a large rose window that symbolizes the wheel of fortune. The bell tower, which rises above the cathedral, is visible from almost anywhere in the city and serves as a reminder of Matera’s deep spiritual roots.

Stepping inside the cathedral, you’ll be struck by the beauty of the interior, with its high vaulted ceilings, grand arches, and ornate altars. The walls are adorned with frescoes and stucco decorations that date back to the 17th century, adding a touch of Baroque opulence to the otherwise austere Romanesque structure. One of the highlights of the cathedral is the crypt, which houses ancient tombs and relics from the early Christian period.

The cathedral is dedicated to the Madonna della Bruna, the patron saint of Matera, and every year on July 2nd, the city celebrates the Festa della Bruna, a grand procession and festival that culminates in the destruction of a giant papier-mâché statue of the Madonna. This centuries-old tradition symbolizes the cycle of life, death, and renewal, and is one of the most important events in Matera’s cultural calendar.

After taking in the beauty of Matera Cathedral, we’ll continue to our next stop: the MUSMA (Museum of Contemporary Sculpture), which offers a modern contrast to the ancient stone dwellings of the Sassi.

### Stop 7: MUSMA – The Museum of Contemporary Sculpture in Matera

As we venture deeper into the city, we’ll find ourselves at the MUSMA, the Museum of Contemporary Sculpture in Matera. Located in the restored Palazzo Pomarici, this unique museum offers a striking contrast to the ancient history of Matera, showcasing contemporary art within the context of the city’s ancient cave dwellings. The museum’s collection features works by some of the most important Italian and international sculptors of the 20th and 21st centuries, making it a must-visit for art lovers.

What makes MUSMA truly special is its setting. The museum’s galleries are housed within the caves of the palazzo, creating an intriguing blend of ancient and modern. As you wander through the underground chambers, you’ll come across sculptures, installations, and multimedia works that explore the relationship between art, nature, and human existence. The juxtaposition of contemporary art against the backdrop of Matera’s ancient stone walls creates a powerful dialogue between past and present.

One of the museum’s most fascinating exhibitions is the Sculpture Park, an outdoor space where large-scale works are displayed against the rugged landscape of the Sassi. As you explore the park, you’ll see how the artists have drawn inspiration from Matera’s unique environment, using stone, metal, and other materials to create pieces that resonate with the city’s ancient roots.

MUSMA is a place where creativity and history collide, offering visitors a chance to experience the transformative power of art in one of the world’s most ancient cities.

### Stop 8: Murgia Timone – A Journey Back to Prehistoric Matera

For our final stop, we’ll take a short trip just outside of Matera to the Murgia Timone, a plateau that overlooks the Gravina Canyon and offers one of the best panoramic views of the Sassi. But Murgia Timone is more than just a scenic viewpoint—it’s also home to some of the region’s most important Neolithic and Paleolithic sites.

As you explore the area, you’ll come across ancient rock-cut tombs, cave dwellings, and prehistoric paintings that offer a glimpse into the lives of Matera’s earliest inhabitants. The caves here were used as shelters by humans as far back as 9,000 years ago, making them some of the oldest evidence of human habitation in Europe. One of the most fascinating finds at Murgia Timone is a series of rock carvings and paintings that depict animals, hunting scenes, and symbolic patterns—evidence of early spiritual and artistic expression.

The Church of Santa Barbara, located on the plateau, is another highlight of Murgia Timone. Carved into the rock, this small rupestrian (rock-cut) church features beautiful frescoes from the Byzantine period, adding yet another layer to the rich tapestry of Matera’s history.

Standing at Murgia Timone, looking out over the canyon and the ancient city of Matera, you can’t help but feel a profound connection to the thousands of years of history that have unfolded here. From the Neolithic cave dwellers to the modern-day residents of Matera, this landscape has been witness to countless generations of human life, each leaving its mark on the stone.

### Conclusion: Matera – A City of Timeless Beauty

As our walking tour of Matera comes to an end, I hope you’ve gained a deeper appreciation for this extraordinary city’s rich history and unique charm. From the ancient cave dwellings of the Sassi to the beautiful rock-cut churches and the modern art of MUSMA, Matera is a place where history, culture, and nature come together in perfect harmony.

Whether you’re drawn to the city’s ancient past or its modern-day cultural revival, Matera is a city that will capture your heart and leave you with memories that last a lifetime. As you continue to explore its winding streets, breathtaking views, and hidden corners, remember that Matera is a living city—one that continues to evolve while staying true to its roots.

Thank you for joining me on this journey through Matera, and I hope you enjoy the rest of your time in one of Italy’s most magical and unforgettable destinations. Arrivederci!

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